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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.